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Archaeological Sewing

by Heather Rose Jones

copyright © 2001, 2003 all rights reserved

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Linen has a high tendency to ravel, so the techniques used with it pay strong attention to finishing edges especially by turning cut edges under so that they are not exposed. (Since linen garments are more likely to be washed than silk ones, seam finishing is more critical here than for silk.) Sewing thread is typically linen.

Linen - Seams: Overcast Stitch and Variants

Overcast of (overlapped selvedges) (Fig. 51)

Overcast of selvedges RST (Fig. 51)

Overcast of (single-fold edges RST) (Fig. 52)

Linen - Seams: Running Stitch

Running stitch of (edges RST) (Fig. 53)

Linen - Seams: Modified Running Stitch (see diagrams) and Variants

Modified running stitch of (fabric and lining, single-folded towards each other) (Fig. 54)

Modified running stitch of (fabric and lining, single-folded towards each other & edge of (running stitch of double-fold folded back RST)) (Fig. 55)

55a(prep. of first edge) 55b (joiningof edges)

[joining linings when main fabric has no seam] Modified running stitch of (main fabric folded RST & linings single-folded toward fabric) (Fig. 56)

[finishing lining when fabric continues] Modified running stitch of (main fabric folded RST & lining single-folded toward fabric) (Fig. 57)

Flat-felled-type: running stitch of RST + overcast of (single-fold edge to fabric) (Fig. 58)

Linen - Seam: with applied binding

?Running stitch? of RST + hem-stitch of (tape with single-fold edges to sides of seam) (Fig. 59)

Linen - Edges

Overcast of (narrow rolled edge) (Fig. 60)

Hemstitch of (double-turned edge) (Fig. 61)

Linen - Edges: with Applied Facing

Modified running stitch of (fabric and facing single-folded toward each other + single-fold cut edge of applied strip RST) + hem stitch of (selvedge edge of applied strip to facing) (Fig. 62)

62a (step one) 62b (step two)

Linen - Other Uses

Cord ties as fastenings

"Quilting"-type: Running stitch of (lining with Z-fold tuck & fabric) (Fig. 63)


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