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This page last modified February
29, 2004
Archaeological Sewing
by Heather Rose Jones
copyright © 2001, 2003 all rights reserved
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Silk
With silk, as with linen, one of the concerns is to prevent ravelling, but the
need to stand up to laundering is not normally a factor. In addition to expensive
garments made entirely of silk, small pieces of silk may be used to edge, face,
or decorate a less expensive fabric. The sewing thread is normally silk, even
when silk is used in combination with another fiber.
Silk - Seams
Overcast stitch of (selvedge & single-fold cut edge) (Fig. 64)
- Medieval: Overcast stitching joins two pieces of silk one selvedge and one
folded edge with a relatively coarse silk thread. Late 14th c. London. [Crowfoot
et al. 1992, p.153, Fig. 124C]
Running stitch of RST + running stitch top-stitching on both sides (Fig.
65)
- Medieval: The regular type of seam in the garment is a running stitch (right
sides together) that has been flattened and has running stitch top-stitching
on either side. The fabric is silk brocade. Early 15th c., Sweden. [Geijer
et al. 1994, Fig. 58]
Running stitch of RST + running stitch top-stitching + running stitch of
(all, folded RST) (Fig. 66)
- Medieval: The four main seams of the body have a running stitch seam with
running stitch top-stitching, which is then folded right sides together at
the seam again and a second running stitch is sewn about halfway between the
original seam and the top-stitching. This leaves a slight ridge on the inside.
The fabric is silk brocade. Early 15th c., Sweden. [Geijer et al. 1994, Fig.
60]
Silk - Seams: with Applied Binding
?Running stitch? of RST + ?running/hem? stitch of (woven tape to main fabric
at sides of seam)
- Medieval: 11th c., an unlined garment of heavy silk, the seams are finished
inside with a silk samite tape. The stitching appears to be a plain running
stitch for the main seam, with the finishing tape either running stitch or
overcast. [Fleury-Lemburg]
?Running stitch? of RST + running stitch of (single-fold on both sides tape,
over seam)
- Medieval: Silk chasuble (11th c.?). Seams (?running stitch?) are finished
on the inside with a narrow self, straight-grain tape (with the edges folded
under) which appears to be sewn down with running stitches. [Müller-Christensen
1953]
Silk - Edges
Overcast stitch of (rolled edge) (Fig. 67)
- Medieval: Typically used for fine silks, e.g., veils. The edge is rolled
slightly and overcast-stitched over the roll. 14th c. London. [Crowfoot et
al. 1992, p.158, fig 129]
Hem stitch of (double-fold edge) (Fig. 68)
- Medieval: 14th c. London. Silk typically has a double-fold hem, sewn with
silk. [Crowfoot et al. 1992, p.156, fig 128 A, Fig. 160]
?Hem? stitch of (wide double-fold edge) + lining with double-fold hem fastened
to the top of the hem in some fashion
- Medieval: There is a wide hem in the main, silk fabric formed by double-folding
the bottom edge of the garment, but the precise stitching is not identifiable.
There is a linen lining with a narrow double-rolled hem that reaches just
to the top of the main hem, to which it is sewn in some fashion. [Müller-Christensen
1953]
Silk - Used to Edge Another Fabric (see figures 39 & 40 in the wool section)
?Running stitch? of (fabric & facing RST) + hem-stitch of (single-fold
of facing to fabric) + running stitch as topstitching
- Medieval: A narrow straight-grain band of silk is used to face a neckline
on a woolen fabric. The band has been sewn to the wool right sides together
with an unknown stitch (but probably running stitch), then turned, with the
edged turned under and overcast to the main fabric along the edge. After this,
two rows of running stitch (in the wool color) have been added. 2nd quarter
of the 14th century London. [Crowfoot et al. 1992, plate 2 B, p.158, Fig.
131]
Hem stitch of (woven tape folded over edge of fabric)
- Medieval: A silk tape is folded in half over the edge and then hem-stitched,
possibly through both edges at once? The example is binding the edge of a
leather purse. Late 14th c. London [Crowfoot et al. 1992, p.158 Fig. 130,
Fig. 153B]
["faced" hem, like neck facing, fabric unknown, stitching unknown]
- Medieval: The hem of a silk fabric was faced for about 5cm, but the facing
is lost and the nature of the stitches is unknown. [Fleury-Lemburg]
Silk - Applied Decoration
Hem stitch of (single-fold edges of applied band to main fabric) (Fig. 69)
- Medieval: A strip of decorative silk has the raw edges turned under and
then is sewn to the ground fabric using hem-stitch. 14th c. London. [Crowfoot
et al. 1992, p. 174, Fig. 151A]
Silk - Other Uses
- Medieval: Eyelets are worked in two rounds of buttonhole stitch in silk,
worked through both the main woolen fabric and a narrow silk facing strip.
Late 14th c. London. [Crowfoot et al. 1992, p.164, Fig. 139]
- Medieval: Worked in silk buttonhole stitch through the main woolen fabric
and a silk facing. The slit is perpendicular to the edge. 14th c. London.
[Crowfoot et al. 1992, p.169f, Fig. 145]
Quilting
- Medieval: A silk lining has been sewn to a woolen ground fabric with rows
of parallel running stitch forming a triangular pattern. There is no evidence
of padding, though. [Crowfoot et al. 1992, p.174, Fig. 151]
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